Clutch Bleeder Block Replacement#

I opted to replace the stock plastic block with an all-metal block from ECS Tuning to get rid of the clutch delay valve. After doing this mod I definitely felt a difference when pressing the clutch pedal. It feels lighter and now I understand what people meant when they say the stock clutch feels mushy.

My only regret with this mod was not buying a clutch line cap. Installing the new O-rings took some time, all the while brake fluid was dripping all over my garage floor (in these cars the clutch and brakes share the same fluid and reservoir). If you don’t have a cap make sure you put rags or a catch pan under your car and have a bottle of brake fluid handy to refill the reservoir when you’re done.

After replacing the block you need to bleed the clutch. You can bleed it by pumping the clutch pedal but I went with the pressure bleeding method instead. Reason is I very recently replaced my brake fluid and used this mod as an opportunity to replace the remaining old brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder and clutch lines.

Instructional videos used

Items Used#

Pictures#

New bleeder block installed on my transmission.	Items used (forgot to include the 8mm wrench).
Remove the Air Box# Use a pick or screwdriver to remove the little vacuum hose nearest to the front of the car. Use your fingers to pinch the plastic bracket to remove the middle hose if your car has it. Finally use hose clamp pliers (or regular pliers) to remove the main intake hose.	Air Box After Removal# With all the hoses removed you can just pull up on the air box to remove it. Roll it towards the front of the car and then lift it out and set aside.
Prepare to Remove Bleeder Block# This is what my car looked like before replacing the block. I’ve circled the original plastic block in this picture. To remove pull up on the two metal clips (each needs to be pulled up twice, or you can just pull them all the way out). Then remove the hose on the right side (it should easily slide out, don’t force it). Finally slide out the block away from the transmission. Don’t forget to replace the two O-rings with the new ones that came with the metal block (you’ll want to use the pick to remove the old O-rings).	New Block Installed# With new O-rings installed on the hose and the protruding end on the transmission side install the new block. Orient it so the fat side (more metal between the clip cutouts and the end) slides towards the transmission, then install the clip. Uncap the hose and slide it into the thin side and install the second clip. I gently tugged on the hose afterwards to ensure the clips held everything in place.
Bleed the Clutch# I used the same power bleeder for my brakes to bleed my clutch. It’s the same process as bleeding brakes, you just need to attach a catch bottle to the bleed screw of the clutch block as if it were a brake caliper.	Clutch Hydraulics Diagram# From page 18 of the service manual D4B80989C93 6-Speed_Manual_Transmission_02S.